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Retinoids: What Are They? And What’s the Right One for You?

Writer's picture: PAmela SloopPAmela Sloop

If you are someone that is interested in skincare products, chances are that you have used or heard of Retinoids. Retinoids are chemical compounds that are derived from vitamin A. Topical retinoids (applied to skin) might come in gels, foams, emulsions, creams or serums. They come in both prescription and non-prescription strengths and are very popular ingredients in many products, treating everything from acne to skin discoloration and wrinkles. There are several different types of Retinoids on the market including Retinol, Retinal (also called Retinaldehyde) and Tretinoin. Tretinoin may also be called all-trans retinoic acid or ATRA. It is sold under many brand names including RetinA. With so many similar sounding names it is easy to get these Retinoids confused, and while they do have similarities, they are most definitely NOT the same! Here are the properties of some of the more commonly used Retinoids:


Retinol:

Is the over-the-counter formulation of Vitamin A that is applied to the skin to reduce signs of aging and acne. It stimulates the metabolism of skin cells and encourages collagen production. When it is applied to the skin, it first must be converted into retinal and then retinoic acid to become bioavailable to your skin.

Retinal or Retinaldehyde:

Is the strongest form of Retinoid available over-the counter. It is about 10 times stronger than Retinol. While Retinol must go through a two-step conversion to become bioavailable to the skin, Retinal only has one step. Even though Retinal is technically stronger than Retinol, it is generally less irritating and may work up to 11 times faster because it doesn’t have the 2-step conversion.

Tretinoin:

Tretinoin is more concentrated and stronger than Retinol and Retinal. It requires a prescription. It can be a good choice for acne and people who have been using milder Retinoids without seeing the results they want. It can act faster and have more dramatic results, but because of the strength, it may also be more irritating to the skin. One brand of Tretinoin that is well known is Retin-A.


How Do You Know What’s Right For You?

Both Retinol and Retinal are available over the counter. They both treat signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles and sun damage. They also may also be used for acne. So, which one is the right one? Do you go with the tried-and-true Retinol that has been around longer, or the newer and gentler Retinaldehyde which may give faster results and cause less irritation? OR do you go straight to the strongest- Tretinoin?

Here's some considerations:


Retinol

  • Versatile and widely available in many strengths and many different products

  • Tried, true and effective

  • Because it comes in some many strengths it is easy to start low and gradually titrate upwards to minimize side effects

  • May work a little slower and cause a little more redness and irritation than Retinal (Retinaldehyde).


Retinal or Retinaldehyde

  • Strongest Retinoid available without a prescription-10 times stronger than Retinol

  • Can be as much as 11 times faster than other Retinoids

  • In most cases it causes less redness and irritation than other retinoids

  • Very effective with little-to-no downtime

  • It is harder to formulate into skincare products, so it is found in fewer products

  • Good steppingstone for those with sensitive skin


Tretinoin

  • Requires a prescription

  • Should be discussed with your dermatologist or healthcare professional before using

  • More side effects of redness, peeling and irritation, often more downtime

  • Stronger, so a good option if other retinoids have not given desired results


While these Retinoids are popular and effective, their use should be discussed with a skincare professional or dermatologist. Women who are pregnant to trying to get pregnant should not use these products unless they have discussed it with their healthcare provider. People with darker skin should also not use retinoids without first discussing it with their dermatologist because of possible side effects.

There are many different brands and forms of both Retinol and Retinal on the market. Here’s some things to look for when choosing a product:


  • A good Retinol Cream should have the percentage of Retinol marked on the label. Less than 0.25% will be ineffective and more than 1% may cause too much peeling, dried skin and potential for increased sun damage. Tretinoin should be at least 0.025%.

  • Retinoid products should be free of harmful ingredients and fillers such as formaldehyde, parabens, phthalates and sodium laurel sulfates. These ingredients can irritate your skin and have been linked with long term skin damage.

  • Look for products that have supporting ingredients and botanicals such as Jojoba Oil, 5% soluble Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid to help your skin retain moisture and boost Collagen production.

  • Look for a company with a solid reputation backed by third-party monitoring, which means that there are independent monitoring companies tracking the company’s customer satisfaction and reputation

  • Third party testing is different from third party monitoring. Third party testing verifies the quality of each of the companies’ products. It can be very expensive for companies, but it is very important because when they don’t have independent quality control, there is nothing to prove that the products are what the company claims them to be (which can happen more than you would think).


Here’s a few of some of the best Retinol and Retinal products that meet or exceed these standards:



Agelyss Retinol Cream

Was Consumer Reviews #1 choice for Retinol Cream. It contains the optimal standardization of Retinol at 1% to retain effectiveness, while not causing damage, plus it contains 5% Marine Collagen and 5% Hyaluronic acids. It contains no Parabens, hormones, AHA or artificial ingredients AND it is cruelty free and has a 365-day money back guarantee. Here is the linkhttps://amzn.to/4af6q73




Skin Medica Retinol Complex 0.5 or 1.0

Enhances skin tone and texture. Ideal for wrinkles, acne scars and age spots. Leaves you with a smoother, more rejuvenated complexion. Here is the link to this product: https://amzn.to/3WiQpHs








Obagi Retinol

It comes in both 0.5% and 1%. This is a medical grade product that also contains Jojoba oil and shea butter to enhance skin elasticity and protect against damage from free radicals. Obagi’s products are rigorously tested for safety and efficacy. Here is a link, click on the spa tab and scroll to the bottom of the page to the Obagi Store: http://www.Foothillscenterforwomen.com



Retivance by SUZANOBAGIMD

is a Retinal (retinaldehyde) product. This is my absolute favorite retinoid product. This serum also contains the antioxidants Vitamin C&E to help improve skins texture and appearance. It is great for sensitive skin, gentle and nourishing. It provides the benefits of the retinoids without the redness and irritation and goes on silky and smooth! You can find it by going to this link, click on the spa tab and scroll down to the Obagi Store http://www.Foothillscenterforwomen.com


Retinoid products including Retinol and Retinal can have some great benefits for your skin and can be a vital part of your skincare regimen, although there are some people who are more sensitive to them than others. It is important to do your research and make sure you are dealing with a reputable company. It is also important that you consult with your own skin care professional or healthcare provider to determine what is right for you.

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